Today I awoke at 8:00...looked at the clock, realized I had no where to be, and rolled back over until close to 10:00. The sun was blazing when I chose to enter this world. I'm not sure what the weather channel was talking about when they prepared me for stormy days.
After re-learning how to make the all important cafe with the old fashioned drip pot that came with our apartment, I was ready to take on this day.
Today that can only be encompassed by the verb to peregrinate, to meander on foot with no real purpose...translated in Spanish to peregrinar, which I learned this evening takes on a holy meaning here...those who search on foot for that which is holy, akin to a pilgrimage.
Jay and I left the apartment with camera gear in tow in search of a place to change money and the idea to find what there was to be found on this Saturday. We ended up at the cafeteria situated on El Conde--the main walking street of Santo Domingo. We walked past this place once on our way to the casa de cambio, and the ambiance drew my attention...outdoor tables, groups of Dominicans involved in conversation or games of dominoes and cards, and a spattering of tourists taking a break from their sight seeing itineraries. We circled back around that way, and I just had to go in for some people watching and una limonada frozen! Jay began jumping up periodically to shoot interesting moments happening around us while I soaked in the scenery. This must have drawn the attention of our waiter, Jesus, who asked me what we are doing here with so many cameras! After a quick explanation, he pointed out several individuals he said we needed to meet who were sitting around us.
As it turns out, this cafeteria is a well-spring for la cultural bohemia de santo domingo. The country's most prominent artists, poets, historians, and professors pass their Saturdays drinking cafe and el presidentes in this very spot. Serendipities abound. Sitting to my right was a tall man reading Roald Dahl and scribbling away in a moleskin, who Jesus introduced me to right away.
Joan is an advertising executive here in DR who in one days time has become our new favorite person in Santo Domingo! After our introduction, he immediately pulled up a seat and engaged in a fascinating conversation with us about the nature of Dominican culture and history. For the next couple hours, we sat under an umbrella while the afternoon rain passed discussing the intricacies of Dominican identity. Joan might be the Dominican equivalent of Woody Allen--he has lived here all of his life and deeply loves, appreciates, and has sought to understand his people. Talking with him today helped me focus this project while also expanding my ideas. One point of Joan's that is sticking with me tonight is the idea that an essential aspect of Dominican identity is the suppression of culture, the hiding, pushing aside, or diminishing of that which is most fully full of the essence of what it means to be Dominican. This is an idea I am just starting to learning about, so I cannot say much more...but I find that statement fascinating.
As we were wrapping up our conversation, his friend, Milton, peregrinated by the cafeteria. I believe peregrination is an art form here, something Americans could learn much from when it comes to daily life. Milton is a painter and musician who is leaving in one week's time to study music in Paris. Milton became interested in our conversation about fuku, and wanted to hear more about our project. As all synchronisities seem to unfold, Milton had an exposition of his paintings up in a cultural center a few blocks from this cafeteria. He invited us to see his paintings and offered to do an interview!
What ensued was so magical, the fruit of peregrination...walking, exploring, and being present in a moment. We set up in a beautiful garden connected to this art space under statues of cristobol colon y los reyes catoloicos and began our first interview. Joan gladly helped Jay behind the camera, utilizing his own skills and background in film and video work. Milton and I dove head first into the topics of Columbus, fuku, our shared American story, the path we must walk as a global society to heal our historical wounds, and the expression of these ideas in his art...Jay is working hard to convert video tonight so that we can post clips tomorrow.
Following the interview, our meander continued; Joan invited us to meet some of his friends at a new bar that opened around the corner from our apartment. The front the building is a shoe store--shoes that resemble the oh-so popular Toms that are blowing up at home, except these are a handmade tradition produced by one family from Spain! They just opened an indoor/outdoor bar and restaurant connected to their shoe store that has such a relaxed, inviting vibe. There we were introduced to Jaime and Nathalie--a gorgeous couple of great talent. Jaime is a photographer and videoographer whose photos Jay and I actually saw from his Flickr account during our pre-trip research! He might be the most talented photographer working in DR today. Nathalie, who studied at the New School in NYC, does reportage and is incredible. We passed the evening in conversation with them about their artistic styles, histories, and perspectives. We also planned a beach trip for next weekend with them, exciting.
I am tired from this day, but filled with the knowledge that there is so much to explore...so many holy moments to embody. Day two, focused on the art of peregrination, has centered me fully in this journey and set the stage beautifully for the work Jay and I want to do while here.
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